HISINAU,
Moldova, Feb. 21 — To most outsiders, it may seem that requiring
college students here to take a course called "History of
Moldova" does not merit toppling the government. Certainly the
Moldovan government does not think so.
"Many
of us are inclined to believe that if there is a state, then it should
have a history," Yurii Stoycov, the chairman of the Moldovan
Parliament's national security committee, said in an interview today.
Then
again, even insiders have been stunned to discover just how explosive
the subject can be.
Almost
daily for six weeks, thousands of protesters have jammed Chisinau's
broad central square and spilled into the streets, this week even
ringing the nearby Parliament building. Spurred at first by a government
edict replacing a Romanian history course with one centered on Moldova,
the demonstrators now demand that Parliament resign and make way for new
elections.
That lays
bare the real issue in the largest protests since Moldova left the
Soviet Union in 1991: not whether this tiny nation of 4.3 million has a
history, but who will get to write it.
On one
side is Moldova's solidly Communist government, swept into power by
voters a year ago after a decade of wild capitalism left the country
broke, corrupt and riven by civil war. They ran on a platform, since
shelved, of forming a political union with Russia and Communist Belarus.
Some here see the new history course as an effort to recast Moldova's
past in a rosy pro-Soviet light, and ignore its Romanian roots.
The
students are even more solidly pro-European. To them, any hint that
Moldova is not joined at the hip to the West is not just heresy, but a
threat to a better life.
"After
World War II, Stalin deported Moldovans to Siberia; my grandfather died
there; my mother was born there," Igor Cojocaru, 28, who is
finishing a second degree at Moldova State University, said as he stood
with protesters on Chisinau's wind- whipped central square. "The
younger generation chooses Europe, not Siberia."
In more
than a few ways, this struggle is a case of history repeating itself,
again and again. Little Moldova, barely bigger than Maryland, is
ethnically two-thirds Romanian and only one-eighth Russian.
But its
geographic id is at best unsettled: aside from a brief marriage with
Romania early in the 20th century, it spent most of the last 200 years
under Russian rule, often unhappily.
Moldova's
first break from the Soviet Union began with a 1980's surge of
nationalism among ethnic Romanians. Once in power, they declared
Romanian the state language, banned the Cyrillic alphabet and moved to
wipe out a host of Soviet legacies, even switching clocks from Moscow to
Bucharest time.
A
Romanian nationalist, Yuri Rosca, led a movement then to meld Moldova
into Romania, a cause some critics say helped unleash a civil war in
1992. Now 40, charismatic and unmistakably ambitious, he is leading the
student protests — and channeling their energy into a campaign to
unseat the Communists.
The
Communists are led by President Vladimir Voronin, a onetime baker who
rose to become the chief of the Moldovan police and the KGB in the
Soviet Union's dying years.
He has a
reputation as a political moderate, though. He has tried to manage the
student protests shrewdly, avoiding violent confrontations. But his
government has blundered from threats to concessions and back with
little effect.
The
protests began in January after officials ordered mandatory
Russian-language training beginning in grade two. That was a more
rigorous curriculum than existed even in Soviet times, when the aim was
to wipe out Moldova's Romanian heritage.
Moldova's
schools are a bastion of pro-Romanian and anti-Russian nationalism that
has faded among average Moldovans. Russian, like Romanian, is an almost
universal language, and among some ethnic minorities who do not speak
Romanian, it is a necessity.
Faced
with a fierce backlash — students all but shut down Chisinau's high
schools and universities, with teachers' tacit support — the
government nevertheless elected this month to replace a Romanian history
course with a new one on Moldova, guaranteeing that the protests would
only grow.
[Communist
officials said on Friday that they would postpone the language and
history courses until experts could choose new textbooks, a clear
attempt to defuse the protests. But on Sunday, more than 40,000
demonstrators filled downtown Chisinau, and Mr. Voronin resorted to
angry charges that Mr. Rosca was engaging in "political
terrorism" and exploiting children for his own aims.]
"They've
been completely hamfisted — and just dumb," said Charles R. King,
an author on Moldovan politics and culture and a professor at Georgetown
University in Washington. "They could have done what they wanted
much more subtly."
Subtlety,
however, has not been the government's long suit. While claiming a
democratic mandate, Mr. Voronin's government has estranged Moldova's
Western political and financial advisers by junking a plan for direct
election of local officials in favor of Soviet-style appointments, and
creating a judicial system some experts say is politically packed.
Foreign
investors complain of increased government harassment, though whether
because of corruption or state hostility is less clear, and about 25
companies have been nationalized. The government's non- Communist
economic and finance ministers have quit, and the International Monetary
Fund and World Bank have called a halt to lending programs that many
call crucial to the economy.
Moreover,
the government first reacted to Mr. Rosca's leadership of the student
protests by seeking to suspend his Christian Democratic People's Party.
Only after an outcry from European human-rights critics was the
suspension revoked.
Through
Russian ownership of Moldovan companies, Russian dominance of the media
and the dominance of the Russian Orthodox Church, Moscow's influence
here is steadily increasing. "This is a little banana republic of
the Russian Federation," Mr. Rosca said.
Yet his
own movement is accused even by moderates of overreaching in its quest
for power. Its demand that the Parliament resign and make way for new
elections has scant constitutional precedent. As for popular support,
Mr. Rosca and his party hold but 11 parliamentary seats out of 101. The
Communists hold 71.
Despite
the outpouring of protesters, experts say, it is unlikely that the
mostly urban student movement will succeed in dislodging the Communists
without support from Moldova's destitute countryside. But most villagers
are too busy with survival to embrace a cause as abstract as language or
history.
Indeed,
it is not clear that Moldovans, Europe's poorest people, care greatly
for either side in this fight.
"The
main part of the adult population is not in the square," Grigory
Susarenko, until 1999 the deputy chairman of Moldova's constitutional
court, said in an interview. "But they don't support the
government, either. Not even the police do."